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Olive Oil, Straight Up!

When she poured me a cup, I thought she must be joking.  The fragrant golden liquid stared back at me like an ominous Fear Factor challenge, designed to test the strength of my stomach.  And as I lifted the glass, I steeled my nerves and took a sip, letting the thick oil coat my tongue with smooth warm spices, the tears of the aceitunas (olives).

Akin to devouring mayonnaise with spoon, something seemed inherently wrong about imbibing oil as though it were wine.  But this is how it´s done.  That is, at least by the professionals.

As luck would have it, Mendoza´s 300 days of sun are not only ideal for the grape vine, but for olive trees as well.  Cool winter months, followed by long, intensely hot, dry summers allow olive trees to flourish in the desert foothills that surround Mendoza city.

However, gaining notoriety for Mendoza olive products has not been an easy undertaking, yet the quality of the olives and oils are certainly deserving of culinary accolades.  And while the olive tree stands taller, for now it is somewhat stuck in the shadow of the mighty Malbec.

Like wine, olives too come in varietals.  There are more than 500 olive varietals, to be less than exact.  And like the grape, the olive varietals are at the mercy (or the magic) of the terroir* of each particular region.

Terroir includes everything that either directly or indirectly influences the plant: soil, elevation, climate and microclimate, irrigation etc.  From the acts of Mother Nature to the actions of a field hand.

But that´s where the similarities stop.  Because unlike wine, olive oil does not age well.  Rather than intensifying its flavors over the years, olive oil begins to deteriorate the second the droplet is squeezed from the fruit.

An old-fashioned olive press. The richest oil is the first droplet that gets squeezed from the fruit as it’s squeezed in this machine.

In its prime – both precious and short – olive oil is layered with complexity, a rich texture accented with bright bitter notes and warm spices.  All of which is laid bare for those brave enough to set the bread aside, and drink it straight-up.

Proper olive oil tastings require the judge to sip the wine from a small glass cup. The glass is tinted blue because the oil is not evaluated on its color, rather on its aromas and flavors alone.

An exceptional olive oil is identified by a number of things: the first is bitterness and spice, amargo y picante.  It´s not exactly the most sought after flavor profile in the grocery aisle, but together they set olive oil apart as not just another rudimentary ingredient.   And like anything else, not every olive performs the same in each category: some are soft and subtly spiced, while others can pack quite a punch.

And unfortunately, the only way to really get to know an olive oil, is to get it alone in a room.  Or rather, alone in a glass.  Warm the oil slightly, by rubbing the bottom of the glass against the palm of your hand, then smell.  You may notice aromas of toasted nuts, cut grass, butter, spices or a particular varietal of olive- if your nose is a truly great detective.  Or you may just notice a cluster of scents, and not yet be able to give them names.  Not to worry.  That´s why you have to drink it too.

That´s right.  With reckless abandon-or perhaps just a little bit of courage- you must then take a sip.  Breathe in air, as though you were slurping, and spray the oil against your cheeks and the roof of your mouth.  Then swallow, and watch for the finish.

You might notice a prick of spiciness in the back of your throat, and twangs of bitterness lingering on your tongue.  Or you may not.

Whether absorbed by a crusty French bread, drizzled on a salad, or sipped from a cup by a foodie, olive oil is meant to be enjoyed.  Use it to compliment flavors, to contribute its own bitter, spicy touch, or to shock your friends when you serve them a glass.

Interested in learning more about olives and olive oil in Mendoza?  Let us know and we´ll plan customized tastings, olive farm tours, and olive treats along the way!  Get started here!

1 Comment

  1. very good post, i certainly love this website, carry on it

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