Stepping out of the Mendoza rainstorm and into the workshop at Dolcezza, was something akin to entering Willy Wonka’s factory.  Though instead of fanciful decorations and extravagant surroundings, the beauty and wonder at Dolcezza is stored in a series of freezers and scooped up with a spoon.

Fernando Soria, founder and owner of Dolcezza Gourmet Ice Creams, was at the helm of his ice cream machine from the minute I crossed the threshold.  A dark, creamy waterfall of dulce de leche ice cream slowly oozed out of the spout and Fernando stood by, keeping a watchful eye.

He handed me a spoonful, and I let the small mound of frozen cream melt over my tongue, lulling it into submission with the sweet richness of Argentine caramel and notes of … coffee bean?  No, Fernando said.  He told me that the richness and roasted smokiness comes from toasting the dulce de leche.

Fernando says that the difference between an artisan ice cream and one you find in a tub in the frozen grocery isle, pumped out of a soft-serve machine, or scooped into a cone on the street comes down to one thing: quality ingredients.  For a man who plays with flavors – combining and recombining to let each one show up on the palate – he knows that chemicals are no substitute.

Baby endives served with blue cheese, and goat cheese ice cream at Clos de Chacras

He also mentioned that many manufactured ice creams are whipped up with air, which provides a light fluffy texture and cheaper production costs, but compromises the concentrated flavors and velvety finish.

His small-scale production means that he works in small batches, testing and readjusting to concoct just the right recipe.  And although his clients sometimes request the same flavors (American, vanilla and dulce de leche being among the most popular), he smiles when he tells me, “nothing here is standard.  We do something really personalized.”  Which is true, he works closely with chefs to develop flavor pairings between desserts and ice creams, and even worked with Tea & Company to feature their teas in a line of unique ice cream flavors.

Fernando created ice creams using these tea flavors, exclusively for one of Mendoza’s Tea Houses

Seasonal fruit cup with brown sugar, basil, and ginger ice cream served at Azafrán.

In the early days of Dolcezza, Fernando had a short list of 4-5 flavors and would hit the pavement, peddling and pitching his creations to Mendoza’s community of innovative chefs.  Today that list has grown, considerably.  He estimates that his repertoire is somewhere between 70 and 80 flavors, but that he’s always incorporating new ingredients and combinations.

So with such a lengthy list, is it possible to find a favorite?  Yes, but it’s not easy.  Fernando prefers ice creams made with black pepper and enjoys the interplay between sweet and spicy.  Dark chocolate and black pepper, or raspberry and black pepper are two flavor triumphs that stand out in his mind.

Raspberry Black Pepper Ice Cream, served with fresh-cracked black pepper

Like any chef, Fernando knows the importance of playing and experimenting with ingredients.  A great creation is never a free pass to stop looking for something still more delicious.  “I’ll find a flavor, and it’ll be a favorite for a while, but then I get a little tired of it and I know it’s time to invent something new,” says Fernando.

And maybe it was just my foreigner’s eye, but it seemed to me that lots of Fernando’s creations had a patriotic ring to them.  Given that his clientele is primarily wineries and upscale restaurants, it’s no surprise that the majority of the people eating his ice creams have foreign passports.  “Many tourists taste my ice cream, so I sometimes showcase typically argentine ingredients: membrillo (quince), olives, dulce de leche, and wine,” says Fernando.  And while that’s true, he does so in a way that’s anything but ordinary.

When he saw that chefs flooded their menus with Malbec flavored everything, Fernando knew that he had to take Argentina’s emblematic flavor in a new direction.  So?  He created Malbec ice cream with Oak chips and raspberry.

And that’s on the safe side of his flavor menu; among other highlights include black olive, orange with olive oil, smoked corn, chickpea and sesame seed, and even beet yogurt ice cream.

“The idea is to sense every flavor in its turn, to find and identify each ingredient, and ultimately to find it delicious.”

You can find Dolcezza ice creams at places such as Tea & Company, Cavas Wine Lodge, Club Tapiz, Divina Marga, and Azafrán.

(Left) Baileys ice cream with white chocolate crumble (right) Mascarpone ice cream with sweet briar jam

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